My water system is designed for medium capacity ( max 100 people ) including cabins,
a full restaurant style kitchen, laundry room, and the lodge with multiple bathrooms.
Since this is a seasonal operation, the whole system is designed to be easily maintained,
and drained at the end of the season. Black Poly pipe is the key here. Cheap, easy to use,
and easily adaptable to any plumbing set up.
The pumphouse is designed around 2 150 gallon spun fibreglas/epoxy water tanks, and
schedule 80 CPVC pipe. No rubber membranes in the tanks. They break down in hard
water, and will clog everything. the whole system can be disassembled without tools,
other than a nut driver for the hose clamps..
From this the water heads to a .5 micron filter, and a ultraviolet filter... a bleach injection system is
inline if we need to meet health code to open for the public..
once outside the pumphouse, I run 2" poly pipe, and tee off and step down as needed.. easy to
assemble with nylon hose barbs and hose clamps, the pipe can be cut quickly with a regular
handsaw. A propane torch will soften the pipe for easier handling..
A couple of hundred feet of 2" poly holds a lot of water at pressure, so the pump doesn't kick in as
often as you would think. Teed off at buildings, down to 3/4" poly, then to 1/2 copper. I know everybody
loves Pex and the other water pipe systems, but pound for pound in my opinion, nothing beats a
properly designed and installed copper water system. Since I drain every building at the end of the season,
low spots have drain valves, as do the hot water tanks.
I will show the above ground septic system next time..
a full restaurant style kitchen, laundry room, and the lodge with multiple bathrooms.
Since this is a seasonal operation, the whole system is designed to be easily maintained,
and drained at the end of the season. Black Poly pipe is the key here. Cheap, easy to use,
and easily adaptable to any plumbing set up.
The pumphouse is designed around 2 150 gallon spun fibreglas/epoxy water tanks, and
schedule 80 CPVC pipe. No rubber membranes in the tanks. They break down in hard
water, and will clog everything. the whole system can be disassembled without tools,
other than a nut driver for the hose clamps..
From this the water heads to a .5 micron filter, and a ultraviolet filter... a bleach injection system is
inline if we need to meet health code to open for the public..
once outside the pumphouse, I run 2" poly pipe, and tee off and step down as needed.. easy to
assemble with nylon hose barbs and hose clamps, the pipe can be cut quickly with a regular
handsaw. A propane torch will soften the pipe for easier handling..
A couple of hundred feet of 2" poly holds a lot of water at pressure, so the pump doesn't kick in as
often as you would think. Teed off at buildings, down to 3/4" poly, then to 1/2 copper. I know everybody
loves Pex and the other water pipe systems, but pound for pound in my opinion, nothing beats a
properly designed and installed copper water system. Since I drain every building at the end of the season,
low spots have drain valves, as do the hot water tanks.
I will show the above ground septic system next time..
