Engine/carb help requested

AGreyMan

I'm gravely disappointed.
Brass Subscriber
#22
@GOBLIN X , is the offer to rebuild the carb still open? The Chinese carb is working fine, but I'd like to have the original Mikuni ready to slap back in when the Chinesium carb gives up the ghost in a year or so. I bought a genuine Mikuni rebuild kit, and when it gets here -presuming your offer is still open- I'll send the carb and kit your way, with return shipping paid.
 

steadfast

Trump back to WH Summer 23
Brass Subscriber
#23
So frustrating. We got a "free" golf cart at work from another group. It ran but not well. Been sitting for a long time.
Drained the gas and put new in.
Ok it runs.
A week later not so much.
No time to mess with it so off to the shop it goes for a tune up.
Get it back.
Same issue.
Duck around with it some.
No time to mess with it so off to the shop it goes.
They diagnose fuel pump.
It comes back runs ok then not so much.
Call the shop. We'll send out a tech.
Tech comes out. It's the spark plug says he and proceeds to pull out this groady piece of crap.
Changes it for a nice shiny new one. Fires right up now.
Shop bill was north of $500
Hard to find a good mechanic these days.
 

GOBLIN X

PUKUTSI
Brass Subscriber
#24
@GOBLIN X , is the offer to rebuild the carb still open? The Chinese carb is working fine, but I'd like to have the original Mikuni ready to slap back in when the Chinesium carb gives up the ghost in a year or so. I bought a genuine Mikuni rebuild kit, and when it gets here -presuming your offer is still open- I'll send the carb and kit your way, with return shipping paid.
yep ship it to me.pm me
 

AGreyMan

I'm gravely disappointed.
Brass Subscriber
#25
More adventures in small engine repair!

Trying to start the logsplitter, and the dang thing just wouldn’t go. In the process of troubleshooting, I pulled the plug, and put my finger over the plug hole while pulling the starter cord: absolutely no compression. I went to Harbor Freight (I know, I know...) and got another engine (wood to be split before it snows, you know), but before installing it, pulled the head of the wood splitter’s Briggs & Stratton. What to my wondering eyes should appear?

A9359A02-6863-4F04-BB69-B90B0314BBB1.jpeg

That’s right, ladies and gents, the intake valve seat had popped out of the aluminum. Just for fun, I repositioned it, rotated the crank until the intake valve was closed, put a “coin” of scrap brass over the valve face, and tapped the seat back in place with a hammer. Then I rotated the crank to open the valve, and hit the seat a few times in several spots with a brass punch.

I slapped it back together and it’s been running normally for about an hour so far.

YouTube videos say I should take a steel pointed punch to the aluminum alongside the seat to push a little extra material at the valve seat in a few places.

Also, this phenomenon seems to afflict primarily Briggs & Stratton engines.

Well, back to splitting wood tomorrow, hopefully!
 

GOBLIN X

PUKUTSI
Brass Subscriber
#26
you can also get a knurled valve seat to press in. happens to harley heads some too. yea interfere alloy with a center punch to put pressure on seat. i get oversize seats, heat pocket and freeze seat.drop it in like a coin if you get temps right, just tap to ensure bottom.

yer real lucky it didnt bend a valve or dent the seat......
 

GOBLIN X

PUKUTSI
Brass Subscriber
#30
reason i ask, you cannot trust the level of ethanol on small 4 stroke engines. 10% not good but ok.15% it heats up faster. alloy expands quicker than the steel valve seats so they get loose and bounce. that one probably happened on shutdown as it did no other damage. and you cant trust the level they say it is...... remember when HD had the same issue when they came out with unleaded. also had a problem with it galling guides and burning valves. the lead is a lubricant in regular non ethanol fuels
 

AGreyMan

I'm gravely disappointed.
Brass Subscriber
#31
Thanks Gobs. I try to run non-ethanol gasoline, but this engine has definitely had a few tanks full of E10 through it. Haven't worked up the gumption/time to pull the head back off and peen the aluminum around the seat. So I guess I am not going to take the Harbor Freight engine back just yet!

Edited to add: I was contemplating buying a kit to be able to run E85 or E0 or any fraction of that in my daily driver ( eFlexFuel kits), since I live in the upper midwest, and E85 is available at every pump, and is sometimes significantly cheaper, even allowing for the reduced energy density of E85 vs. E10. The kit contains an ethanol sensor, injector interfaces, and a brain box. However, if what holds true for the Briggs & Stratton holds true for the Toyota 1GR-FE engine, that may be inadvisable.
 
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